Tabu by Dana c1932

Tabu perfume by Dana, a legendary creation born in 1932, is a fragrance that has captured imaginations and provoked curiosity for decades. Conceived by the master perfumer Jean Carles, Tabu was the result of a unique and bold challenge: to craft a perfume so sensuous and provocative that it could be described as "un parfum de puta," or a perfume that a prostitute would wear. This brief from Dana's creative team was not merely to shock or titillate but to explore and embody a scent of raw, unapologetic sensuality—a scent that defied conventions and embraced the allure of forbidden passion.

Jean Carles, renowned for his ability to blend unconventional notes into harmonious compositions, approached this task with his characteristic flair. The resulting fragrance, Tabu, is a testament to his artistry and daring vision.

The creation of Tabu as "un parfum de puta" was a bold and provocative move, one that challenged the norms of its time. It was not merely about creating a scent that was overtly sensual but about capturing the essence of uninhibited passion and desire. Tabu was designed to evoke a world of forbidden allure, a world where societal boundaries are blurred, and sensuality reigns supreme. It is a fragrance that invites exploration and seduction, a scent that has become iconic for its rich, intoxicating blend of florals, spices, and earthy notes.

In this guide, as we delve into the sensual world of Tabu, we are not just exploring a fragrance but also a piece of history—a symbol of daring creativity and the timeless allure of passion. Tabu continues to captivate and enchant, a true testament to the enduring power of scent and the artistry of Jean Carles. Whether you are new to this classic fragrance or a longtime admirer, Tabu offers an experience that is as rich and complex as the emotions it evokes.

The Perfume's Name:

The story behind the naming of Tabu by Dana Perfumes adds a layer of intrigue and cultural reference that complements the fragrance's bold and sensual character. The perfume's creator, Javier Serra, found inspiration for the name in an unexpected place—a bookshop in Nice, France. As he strolled past the shop, his eye was drawn to the cover of Sigmund Freud's new book, "Totem & Taboo." The word "Taboo," with its connotations of the forbidden and the culturally off-limits, resonated with Serra's vision for a fragrance that would push boundaries and evoke a sense of daring sensuality. The idea of naming a perfume after a concept as provocative as "taboo" was both innovative and bold, capturing the spirit of the fragrance he aimed to create. When translated into Spanish, the word "taboo" becomes "tabu," a simple yet evocative name that perfectly encapsulated the allure and mystery of the perfume.

Adding to the mystique of Tabu is another fascinating legend surrounding its name. According to this story, the perfume was named after a famous painting titled "The Kreutzer Sonata" by René Prinet. The painting depicts a passionate scene inspired by Leo Tolstoy's novella of the same name, which explores themes of love, jealousy, and betrayal. Dana Perfumes acquired the rights to this evocative artwork, using it in their advertising campaigns alongside the slogan "The longest kiss in history." This imagery, combined with the intense emotional themes of the painting and Tolstoy's story, aligned perfectly with the provocative and sensual nature of Tabu. The perfume became associated not only with its bold scent but also with the idea of an enduring, almost scandalous passion—a love that transcends societal norms and expectations.

The dual inspirations behind Tabu—Freud's exploration of cultural taboos and the emotional intensity of "The Kreutzer Sonata"—reflect the complexity and depth of the fragrance itself. Just as Freud's work delves into the hidden and often suppressed aspects of human desire, Tabu invites wearers to embrace their own sensuality and to explore the boundaries of their emotions. The association with "The Kreutzer Sonata" further enhances the perfume's narrative, suggesting a story of love and desire that is both timeless and universal.

In 1935, a few years after the launch of Tabu, Dana Perfumes introduced another fragrance named Totem, completing the nod to Freud's influential work. While Totem did not achieve the same iconic status as Tabu, the pairing of these names reflects Serra's innovative approach to branding and his desire to infuse his creations with deeper cultural and psychological meaning.

Thus, Tabu is not just a perfume; it is a symbol of daring and sensuality, a fragrance that encourages the wearer to explore the taboo aspects of desire and passion. The stories behind its name add rich layers of meaning, making Tabu not only a sensory experience but also a cultural artifact that continues to captivate and intrigue.

The Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral woody amber oriental fragrance for women. Tabu is a luxurious, rich and heavy perfume, it is perfect to wear during the fall and winter months. A perfume classic, oriental and exciting. Tabu is blended of the finest ingredients available: absolutes of rose, jasmine, orange blossom, laced with patchouli and oakmoss, and based on precious musk and amber fixatives, the Tabu scent is of superb quality.

• Top notes: bergamot, orange blossom, basil, neroli, coriander
• Middle notes: pepper, carnation, clover, jasmine, narcissus, Bulgarian rose, oriental rose, ylang ylang
• Base notes: ambergris, oakmoss, vetiver, civet, sandalwood, resins, patchouli, precious woods, musk, cedar, benzoin, vanilla.

 Fragrance and Wellbeing: Plant Aromatics and Their Influence on the Psyche, 2013:

"Clove was also present in the "Mellis accord", which was a widely used base in spicy oriental fragrances including Youth Dew, Opium, Tabu and Coco. The mellis accord, which makes up an important part of the fragrance here incorporates amyl salicylate in addition to benzyl salicylate, with the patchouli and hydroxycitronellal (which has a linden blossom-like, sweet, green, radiant odor), spices, woods and coumarin. Since then restrictions have been placed on some of these, so it will have been modified."

La Femme Chic, 1945:

"Very hot, very tenacious, frankly intoxicating, Tabu, is called in America 'The forbidden perfume.' This shows the almost guilty temptation it exerts and the popularity it enjoys in the United States. This powerful creation by Dana is especially suitable for brunette and auburn women; it goes very well with fur and hair."

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Tabu by Dana: Balsamic perfume with waves of amber, forbidden perfume that captivates like an incantation. Essentially feminine perfume for brunettes and chestnuts, your exotic peppers seem to multiply charms and increase seduction."

 

Scent Profile:

Tabu by Dana is a fragrance that envelops the senses in a luxurious, rich, and heady aroma, perfect for the colder months of fall and winter. As I experience this iconic scent firsthand, the journey begins with a burst of top notes that instantly captivate and intrigue. The sharp, zesty essence of bergamot mingles with the sweet, delicate scent of orange blossom, creating a vibrant and refreshing opening. The inclusion of basil adds a herbal touch, bringing a green, slightly peppery edge that contrasts beautifully with the floral sweetness. Neroli's bright, bitter-orange nuances and the warm, spicy undertones of coriander further enrich this initial bouquet, setting the stage for a complex olfactory experience.

As the top notes gradually recede, Tabu reveals its heart—a lush, floral composition that exudes warmth and sensuality. Here, the scent of carnation dominates, its spicy, clove-like aroma blending seamlessly with the earthiness of patchouli. This bold combination creates a distinctive accord that is both unique and memorable, a signature of Tabu's character. The floral heart is further deepened by the intoxicating scents of jasmine and narcissus, which add a rich, sweet, and slightly indolic quality. Oriental rose contributes a deep, velvety aroma, while ylang-ylang infuses the blend with its creamy, exotic sweetness. The addition of clover introduces a subtle green, herbaceous note, which balances the intensity of the other florals and spices.

The dry-down of Tabu is a warm, sensual embrace, characterized by a blend of rich base notes that linger beautifully on the skin. The presence of ambergris provides a warm, slightly salty undertone, while oakmoss brings a deep, earthy richness. Vetiver adds a smoky, woody depth, and civet imparts a musky, animalic nuance that enhances the fragrance's allure. The smooth, creamy scent of sandalwood, combined with the resinous, sweet tones of benzoin and vanilla, creates a comforting and enveloping finish. Precious woods, musk, and cedar add further complexity and warmth, making the base both long-lasting and deeply satisfying.

An important component of Tabu's structure is the "Mellis accord," a spicy oriental base widely used in fragrances such as Youth Dew, Opium, and Coco. This accord incorporates amyl salicylate and benzyl salicylate, which contribute a sweet, green, radiant odor reminiscent of linden blossoms. These elements, along with spices, woods, and coumarin, create a rich and multifaceted scent profile. Notably, Tabu features a daring 10% dose of patchouli—a groundbreaking move in the world of modern perfumery at the time of its creation. This high concentration of patchouli, combined with the pungent aroma of carnation, forms a distinctive and unforgettable accord that defines Tabu's character.

Overall, Tabu by Dana is a timeless and legendary fragrance that continues to captivate with its complex and richly layered composition. The harmonious blend of floral, woody, and amber notes, highlighted by a bold use of patchouli, makes it a true classic in the world of perfumery. As I experience each ingredient firsthand, Tabu unveils a story of sensuality, warmth, and exotic allure—a fragrance journey that is as intriguing and unforgettable as the scent itself.

Bottle Designs:

Tabu has been found packaged in a figural cello/violin bottle, a rectangular bottle and tall glass bottles.

 

The Fate of the Fragrance:

In 2001, Tabu by Dana received a modern update through the skilled hands of perfumer Sophia Grojsman, renowned for her work with International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF). Grojsman, known for her expertise in creating lush and enduring fragrances, approached the reformulation of Tabu with a delicate balance of respect for its original composition and the need to modernize its ingredients. The result was a refreshed version that retained the essence of Tabu—its rich, oriental character and bold sensuality—while adapting to contemporary standards and preferences. This reformulation ensured that Tabu could continue to enchant new generations of fragrance lovers, while still holding a special place in the hearts of those who cherished the original scent.

To promote the newly reformulated Tabu, Dana Perfumes chose the iconic actress Isabella Rossellini as the face of the campaign. Rossellini, known for her timeless beauty and sophistication, brought a fresh yet classic appeal to the brand. Her involvement underscored the perfume's legacy and its ongoing relevance in the world of fragrance. The advertising campaign highlighted Tabu's allure and mystique, connecting with both long-time fans and new audiences alike. Rossellini's association with the fragrance added an element of elegance and intrigue, enhancing the overall perception of Tabu as a scent that transcends time.

Despite the reformulation, Tabu has remained a beloved choice for women of all ages, continuing to captivate with its distinctive blend of notes. The vintage version of Tabu, with its original composition, is still highly regarded by fragrance enthusiasts for its complexity and depth. It serves as a testament to the perfumer's art, offering a rich sensory experience that is both nostalgic and timeless. The enduring appeal of Tabu lies in its ability to evoke a sense of luxury and sensuality, making it a staple in many women's fragrance collections.

Today, Tabu is accessible in a variety of forms, catering to different preferences and occasions. From cologne to eau de parfum, and even dusting powder and lotion, the fragrance is available at affordable prices, making it an attractive option for those who appreciate its classic scent profile. The versatility of Tabu allows it to be worn in different settings, whether one is seeking a subtle daytime fragrance or a more intense evening scent. The continued availability of Tabu in various formats ensures that its legacy lives on, offering both long-time fans and new users the opportunity to experience its unique charm.