Platine by Dana c1938

Platine by Dana was launched in 1938 in France and reached the U.S. by 1939. The name Platine (pronounced pla-teen) comes from the French word for platinum, a precious metal known for its rarity, strength, and gleaming silvery-white appearance. By choosing this name, Dana aligned the fragrance with the luxury and exclusivity that platinum represents. The bottles themselves were designed to reflect this, with silvery foil flakes floating inside, mimicking the brilliant, refined qualities of platinum. This choice of name and packaging subtly communicated the fragrance's elegance, sophistication, and the high status associated with platinum.

But why would Dana choose platinum as an inspiration for a fragrance? Platinum, by its very nature, is rare and valuable, making it a fitting metaphor for a perfume meant to evoke a sense of luxury. At the time, platinum was often associated with wealth, power, and the elite, making it an aspirational element for those who sought a touch of opulence. Platinum jewelry reached its zenith during the Art Deco era. The word Platine itself evokes images of cool, gleaming surfaces, precious metals, and rare beauty, all qualities that would be desirable in a fragrance. Platinum's high value also made it an ideal symbol for a fragrance meant to appeal to the sophisticated, well-heeled women of the time. In Spanish-speaking countries, the fragrance was released as Platino, reinforcing its precious connotation.

The late 1930s and early 1940s were times of upheaval and transition, as World War II loomed on the horizon and Europe was in turmoil. For women, fashion was shifting from the extravagant styles of the late 1920s and early 1930s to the more restrained, practical outfits of wartime, but there was still a desire for luxury and escape through beauty products. The allure of a fragrance named Platine would have offered women a way to maintain a sense of glamour, sophistication, and escape, even in a world filled with uncertainty. Perfumes like Platine allowed women to connect with a sense of femininity and elegance, even in the midst of challenging times.

In terms of scent, Platine is classified as an aldehydic floral fougère, a genre that was becoming more prominent in the 1930s. The fragrance opens with a sparkling, almost effervescent aldehydic top note that brings to mind the clean, fresh sensation of a spring morning. The aldehydes are then punctuated by green notes, which add a crisp, natural edge. These top notes lead into a heart of soft, soapy Bulgarian rose—a note often associated with purity and femininity—along with the intoxicating florals of jasmine, orange blossom, lily of the valley, and lilac. This combination of flowers creates a rich, sweet bouquet, evoking a sense of delicate but persistent femininity. The fragrance is then grounded by a classic fougère base, which often includes notes like oakmoss, lavender, and coumarin, contributing to its clean, slightly woody and herbal finish.

In comparison to other fragrances of the era, Platine was part of the trend towards lighter, more ethereal scents, with aldehydes and florals becoming dominant in the 1930s. It was not a radical departure from the styles of the time but was certainly a refined example of the trend. The presence of aldehydes and the floral bouquet would have aligned it with the likes of Chanel No. 5, which was released in the 1920s and had revolutionized the perfume world with its synthetic sparkle. What set Platine apart was its perfect balance of freshness and depth, an embodiment of femininity that was both delicate and persistent, just as platinum itself is both rare and enduring.

For women of the time, a fragrance named Platine would have symbolized a touch of glamour, a nod to both elegance and rarity in a world that was starting to feel the strain of war. It was a fragrance for the sophisticated woman who wanted to hold on to beauty and refinement, even as the world around her was changing. Platine captured the essence of luxury in a bottle, with its sparkling, floral notes representing the elusive beauty of a fleeting moment.

Drug & Cosmetics Industry, 1938:

In 1938, Emile Rosenberg, export director of Dana S.A. in Paris, visited the United States to explore the market potential for the company’s luxurious fragrances, particularly "Platinum" and "20 Carats." These two scents, renowned for their opulence, were unique for incorporating actual gold and platinum leaf suspended in the liquid—a touch of extravagance that underscored their appeal. Rosenberg noted that these perfumes were already well-established in Central and South America, as well as in France, making them ideal candidates for broader international distribution. The inclusion of precious metals in the perfumes wasn't just a gimmick; it symbolized the height of sophistication and was tailored for a discerning clientele who valued both the exclusivity and the artistry of fine fragrance. The gold and platinum flakes were a visual representation of the luxury embodied in the scents themselves.

Esquire, 1951:

By 1951, Platine by Dana had earned a reputation as an elegant and lasting fragrance, one that was synonymous with dignity and class. As Esquire described, Platine was "light but extremely lasting," emphasizing its ability to remain present throughout the day without overwhelming the wearer. The fragrance was portrayed as the essence of grace, perfect for a woman of "great dignity." This characterization reinforced Platine's status as a scent that commanded respect while maintaining an air of sophistication and subtlety—qualities that were highly valued in the post-war era. It was a fragrance that spoke of refinement, not excess, making it an ideal choice for the woman who sought elegance without fanfare.

Harper's Bazaar, 1956:

In 1956, Harper's Bazaar offered an alluring interpretation of Platine, describing it as having "a hint of sex appeal, quite lightly and elegantly implied." This characterization added a layer of intrigue to Platine, suggesting that beneath its dignified exterior lay an undertone of sensuality. It was a fragrance that didn’t need to shout; instead, it offered a subtle, refined allure that was undeniably feminine. At $18.50 for an ounce, Platine was positioned as a luxury item—an investment in elegance and allure for the sophisticated woman who desired more than just a fragrance, but a statement of timeless beauty and understated seduction.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fougere fragrance for women. It begins with a sparkling aldehydic top note, punctuated with green notes, followed by lots of soapy Bulgarian roses, precious jasmine, orange blossom, lily of the valley and sweet lilac over a classic fougere base. The epitome of femininity is delicate, yet clinging.  

• Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, Grasse jonquil, Dutch lilac and Dutch narcissus
• Middle notes: Tunisian orange blossom, French carnation, Alpine lily of the valley, Manila ylang ylang, Grasse jasmine, Florentine iris, Indian tuberose, fern, Provencal lavender and Bulgarian rose
• Base notes: ambergris, Tibetan musk, Seychelles patchouli, Dutch juniper, Mediterranean cypress, Italian orris, Java vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, Yugoslavian oakmoss and Sumatran styrax

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Platine by Dana: The combination of lily of the valley, rose, and lilac creates a luxurious, rich, and subtly refined fragrance—much like how a rare metal beautifully complements a precious diamond, it is perfectly suited to a blonde, enhancing her elegance and rarity."

Scent Profile:

Platine by Dana opens with an effervescent burst of aldehydes, their sparkling, metallic sharpness creating a sense of freshness and modernity, like a morning mist catching the first light of dawn. The aldehydes lend a translucent quality to the fragrance, giving it a clean, almost soapy character that shimmers as it unfurls. This initial brightness is quickly joined by the green, citrusy brightness of 

Calabrian bergamot—a variety of bergamot known for its sweet, zesty, and subtly spicy profile. Sourced from the sun-drenched Calabria region of Italy, this bergamot offers a clean, almost tart zestiness that immediately lifts the scent. Alongside this, Sicilian lemon adds an even sharper, tangy note, grounding the fragrance in the freshness of southern Italy's sun-ripened citrus groves, known for their smooth, aromatic quality that feels both crisp and indulgent. These citrus notes give Platine an instant sparkle, evoking the early moments of a new day.

Interwoven with the citrusy freshness are delicate floral notes, such as Grasse jonquil, a dainty flower native to the South of France. Its soft, powdery, and slightly sweet fragrance brings a delicate, almost ethereal quality to Platine. Dutch lilac follows, offering a slightly heavier, more opulent floral note, rich with its signature sweetness and layered with a hint of green, evoking the first flush of spring when lilacs bloom in gardens throughout Europe. The Dutch narcissus, with its creamy, slightly peppery undertones, adds an airy, fresh complexity to the opening, contributing to the blend’s overall sense of brightness while hinting at floral opulence. Together, these ingredients form a dazzling, sparkling introduction, giving Platine a buoyant, sophisticated aura.

As Platine settles, the heart reveals an intricate bouquet of florals, each one carefully chosen to create a tapestry of delicate femininity. The Tunisian orange blossom stands out with its honeyed sweetness, its intoxicatingly warm, floral notes reminiscent of sun-soaked Mediterranean afternoons. It's rich and creamy, softening the sharpness of the earlier citrus and giving the perfume a gentle, inviting warmth. French carnation, known for its spicy, clove-like essence, adds depth and an elegant spice to the heart, complementing the other florals with a touch of sophistication. The cool, green-fresh scent of Alpine lily of the valley brings an almost crystalline purity, like a springtime breeze that carries the scent of newly bloomed flowers in the mountains of Europe.

The Manila ylang-ylang, with its exotic, heady sweetness, wraps the composition in an almost tropical warmth. It imparts a luscious, honeyed floral note that blends seamlessly with Grasse jasmine, whose opulent, intoxicating scent conjures visions of night-blooming jasmine flowers cascading over garden walls in the South of France. The Florentine iris adds a powdery richness, its delicate violet-like sweetness offering a classical sophistication that elevates the overall bouquet. 

At the same time, the Indian tuberose offers an intense, creamy floral note, its heady and slightly indolic fragrance adding depth and richness. The fern brings a whisper of green, grounding the composition with its clean, herbaceous notes, evoking the forest floor’s earthy richness. Provencal lavender weaves a calming, aromatic element throughout, its fresh, herbal scent evoking sunlit fields in the south of France, while the Bulgarian rose—a perennial favorite in perfumery—infuses the heart with a rich, honeyed, and almost fruity floral note. This rose is known for its velvety, complex scent, making it one of the finest roses in the world.

As Platine begins to dry down, it is anchored by a base that brings both warmth and depth to the fragrance. Ambergris, a rare and luxurious material, imbues the scent with a warm, musky richness that exudes sensuality and depth, evoking the mysterious allure of the sea. Tibetan musk adds another layer of warmth, with its deep, animalic tones evoking the rugged, untamed landscapes of Tibet. The Seychelles patchouli, sourced from the tropical islands of the Seychelles, imparts a woody, slightly earthy note, adding complexity and depth to the fragrance’s final moments. Dutch juniper offers a crisp, refreshing pine-like note, cutting through the richness of the base and providing an intriguing contrast.

The Mediterranean cypress lends an evergreen, slightly resinous quality, evoking the wind-swept hills of the Mediterranean coast, where the scent of cypress trees fills the air. Italian orris (from the rhizomes of the iris flower) adds a powdery, soft, and almost creamy undertone, elevating the perfume with a refined, luxurious touch that is prized in perfumery for its delicate and long-lasting presence. Java vetiver, known for its earthy, smoky, and woody tones, adds a grounding element to the base, making it feel both complex and sophisticated. 

Mysore sandalwood, famous for its creamy, woody, and slightly sweet character, brings an enveloping warmth that wraps the wearer in a subtle, intimate cloud of fragrance. Yugoslavian oakmoss, with its deep, forest floor-like richness, contributes to the fragrance’s chypre structure, providing an earthy, mossy touch that anchors the perfume in nature’s complexity. Sumatran styrax, with its balsamic, resinous sweetness, further enriches the base with a warm, sensual undertone.

Taken as a whole, Platine is a complex, sparkling, yet grounded fragrance, woven together by a blend of bright citrus, delicate florals, and warm, earthy woods and resins. It embodies the essence of femininity in its soft, delicate, yet persistent presence—a fragrance that lingers in the air, leaving a subtle yet lasting impression. Its evolution from bright aldehydic freshness to floral elegance, and finally to a deep, woody, resinous base, mirrors the journey of a woman who remains poised and sophisticated in every moment, no matter where life takes her.

Product Line:

Parfum:

The Parfum version of Platine by Dana was the epitome of elegance and refinement, encapsulating the full intensity and complexity of the fragrance in its most concentrated form. It was a luxurious expression of the scent, designed to last throughout the day with a single application. The rich, aldehydic floral notes bloomed on the skin, evolving with time to reveal the sparkling yet soft essence that Platine was known for. This precious elixir was often presented in an elegant bottle, reflecting the sophistication of the fragrance within. As with any high-end perfume, the Parfum was a symbol of status and taste, and a few drops were enough to imbue the wearer with an air of distinction and class.

 

Cologne (Colonia):

The Colonia, or cologne, offered a lighter, more refreshing version of Platine, making it ideal for everyday wear. While the scent remained recognizable, it was more accessible and less intense than the Parfum, with the aldehydic notes softened by a zesty, citrus opening. The Colonia was a favorite for those who enjoyed the essence of Platine but desired a fragrance that was subtle and clean—perfect for warmer weather or for those who preferred something less overpowering. The cologne also provided an excellent opportunity to layer the scent with other Platine products, creating a cohesive fragrance experience that could be enjoyed from head to toe.

Dusting Powder:

The Dusting Powder form of Platine was a luxurious addition to the beauty routine, offering a silky, soft finish to the skin while imparting a light veil of fragrance. Infused with the delicate notes of Platine, the powder created an elegant, understated scent that lingered throughout the day without being overwhelming. Ideal for use after a bath or shower, the Dusting Powder helped to smooth and refresh the skin while leaving it lightly scented. It was a product that appealed to those who appreciated subtlety, as it provided a gentle touch of luxury and an opportunity to indulge in the Platine experience without the intensity of the Parfum.

Hair Lotion (Locion):

The Hair Lotion, or Locion, was an innovative way to experience Platine through the hair. This lightly scented lotion was designed to nourish and style the hair, leaving it soft, shiny, and delicately fragrant. The scent of Platine infused the hair, providing a long-lasting, feminine allure that complemented the fragrance worn on the skin. The lotion's formula helped to tame flyaways and add a smooth, polished finish to the hair, making it an ideal product for those who wanted their entire beauty routine to reflect the sophistication of Platine. Whether used on its own or in combination with other Platine products, this hair lotion added a layer of luxury to everyday grooming.

Bath Oil:

Platine Bath Oil offered a decadent way to incorporate the fragrance into a relaxing, spa-like experience. A few drops of this luxurious oil would transform a bath into an aromatic retreat, filling the water with the sparkling aldehydic floral notes that defined Platine. As it dissolved into the warm water, the oil nourished the skin, leaving it soft and delicately scented. The bath oil provided an indulgent ritual that allowed the wearer to immerse themselves in the fragrance from head to toe, making it perfect for those who sought a moment of relaxation while enjoying the refined elegance of Platine.

Brilliantine:

The Brilliantine was a signature product in the Platine line, offering a unique way to wear the fragrance through the hair. This hair tonic was designed not only to add a subtle sheen and smoothness to the hair but also to imbue it with the sophisticated Platine scent. It worked as both a styling product and a finishing touch, providing a glossy, polished look while maintaining the delicate fragrance. Ideal for those who wanted their hair to carry the same refined elegance as their skin, the Brilliantine made the wearer feel impeccably groomed from head to toe. It was particularly effective in adding shine and a light, fresh scent to the hair, ensuring that the Platine experience extended beyond just fragrance on the skin.

 

  

Fate of the Fragrance:

Platine by Dana was first launched in 1938, a time when the world was on the cusp of significant cultural and societal change. The late 1930s and early 1940s were marked by the lingering effects of the Great Depression and the global upheaval caused by the Second World War. Amidst these challenging times, Platine emerged as a symbol of luxury, refinement, and escapism, offering a touch of elegance to a world that was increasingly grappling with uncertainty. The fragrance was designed for women who sought a sense of distinction and poise, and Platine's sparkling aldehydic floral composition fit perfectly into the sophisticated sensibilities of the era. With its fresh, refined scent, Platine became the fragrance of choice for those who wanted to express their femininity with grace, making it a favorite among those in high society and those who appreciated the artistry of fine perfumery.

As the years passed, Platine continued to capture the attention of women worldwide, particularly in the United States, where it was introduced in 1939. Its signature blend of aldehydes, florals, and subtle green notes gave it a timeless appeal that could transition effortlessly from daytime wear to evening sophistication. The fragrance’s popularity spanned several decades, cementing its place as one of Dana’s most celebrated creations. The inclusion of luxurious ingredients, such as jasmine, rose, and orris, along with the delicate balance of aldehydic notes, made Platine a standout in the crowded fragrance market. Platine also aligned with the era’s fashion, as it complemented the elegant and graceful clothing styles of the time, including the feminine silhouettes of the 1940s and 1950s. The bottle, with its refined design and elegant presentation, became as much a part of the allure of Platine as the fragrance itself.

However, as with many perfumes, the inevitable changes in fashion and taste led to Platine's eventual decline in popularity. By the late 1970s, Dana made the decision to discontinue Platine, marking the end of an era for the fragrance. While the exact year of its discontinuation is unclear, it is generally accepted that Platine faded from the market sometime in the late 1970s, as the perfume world began to shift towards more daring, contemporary scents. The 1970s were a time when bold, opulent fragrances like those from the chypre and oriental families gained prominence, and Platine's delicate aldehydic floral composition no longer resonated with the evolving preferences of consumers. The fragrance's more traditional, refined nature seemed to lose its place in a world that was embracing change, leading to its removal from store shelves.

Despite its discontinuation, Platine remains a beloved classic for perfume enthusiasts and collectors, revered for its timeless elegance and the luxurious atmosphere it evoked. Though no longer available through regular retail channels, vintage bottles of Platine can still be found on the secondary market, where they are treasured by those who remember its original charm or seek to experience a piece of perfumery history. Platine’s brief but impactful presence in the perfume world serves as a reminder of a bygone era of sophistication and grace, leaving a lasting legacy in the hearts of those who were fortunate enough to experience its beauty.