20 Carats by Dana c1933

First introduced in 1933, 20 Carats emerged as a follow-up to Parfums Dana's groundbreaking debut fragrance, Tabu, launched just a year prior. The name "20 Carats" evokes a sense of rarity, opulence, and unparalleled quality, referencing the term used to measure the purity of gold or the weight of gemstones. Derived from the French word "carat" (pronounced "kah-rah"), the name would resonate with sophistication and luxury, suggesting a fragrance of exceptional value. For Spanish-speaking markets, the name was translated as 20 Quilates, aligning with the local term for carats. Some bottles bear the dual or even triple branding of 20 Carats-20 Quilates-20 Ks, reflecting the global reach and multilingual adaptability of the fragrance.

The name "20 Carats" evokes images of gleaming gold, sparkling gemstones, and timeless elegance. It conjures emotions of aspiration and indulgence, offering a touch of refinement in a turbulent era. Launched during the depths of the Great Depression, the fragrance offered a slice of escapism and a promise of luxury during a time defined by economic hardship. This was the period of the early 1930s, characterized by a stark contrast between austerity and the enduring allure of glamour. Despite the financial strain, women clung to beauty and fashion as expressions of hope. Hollywood’s Golden Age popularized sleek gowns, fur accents, and intricate accessories, fueling the desire for affordable luxury like an elegant fragrance.

To women of the time, 20 Carats symbolized sophistication, aspiration, and confidence. Perfumes were an accessible indulgence, allowing women to express their femininity and individuality, even amid societal struggles. A name like "20 Carats" suggested not only beauty but also resilience—a sparkling reminder of one’s intrinsic worth.

  

As a spicy floral fougère, 20 Carats offered a unique blend of fruits, herbs, and grasses with a dominant carnation note. This central floral theme was enriched by the warmth of rose and jasmine, accompanied by rare spices that gave the fragrance a radiant sophistication. The carnation’s spiced undertone added depth, while the overall composition balanced brightness and warmth, embodying both elegance and sensuality. In the context of the early 1930s, this complex yet harmonious fragrance would stand out as an innovation. Many perfumes of the era were heavy, aldehydic florals or light single-note scents, but 20 Carats bridged the gap, offering a warm, sophisticated profile that exuded timeless allure.

Initially available only in Dana's Parisian boutique, 20 Carats may have reached American shores through soldiers returning from France with gifts for their loved ones. Such treasures carried not just the scent but the mystique of Paris, a city synonymous with romance and fashion. It wasn’t until the 1940s, possibly post-World War II, that Dana began officially exporting fragrances like 20 Carats to the U.S. market. A 1945 advertisement heralded the perfume as “The new elegance in perfume and fashion,” reflecting its positioning as a symbol of refined taste and postwar optimism.

In an era shaped by global challenges and evolving societal norms, 20 Carats offered women a moment of glamour and individuality. Its name, its scent, and its story continue to represent the enduring appeal of luxury, artistry, and aspiration in perfumery.

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy floral fougere fragrance for women with a rich blend of fruits, herbs and grasses with a dominant carnation note. Rose and jasmine with subtle touches of carnation and rare spices to give warmth and unusual glow to the scent. 20 carats is a perfume with warm sophistication.

• Top notes: bergamot, lemon, cherry, orange, cinnamon, eugenol, nutmeg, clove bud oil, aldehydes
• Middle notes: cardamom, heliotropin, dianthine, carnation, rose, jasmine, lavender, herbs, fern, myrrh, frankincense
• Base notes: labdanum, tonka bean, civet absolute, sandalwood, ambergris, oakmoss, coumarin, musk, balsam, tobacco, patchouli, vanillin, vanilla, benzoin and vetiver

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"20 Carats by Dana: its title speaks for itself... very rare carnations seem to have fixed the aroma of this elegant and tenacious dry perfume which is worn like a jewel of fine gold."

Scent Profile:

At first sniff, 20 Carats opens with an exhilarating burst of bergamot and lemon, their crisp, sunlit brightness dancing across the senses. These citrusy sparks are joined by the soft juiciness of cherry and the sweet, slightly tangy zest of orange, creating a fruit medley that is both refreshing and inviting. Interwoven with this fruity brilliance are the warm, spicy accents of cinnamon, clove bud oil, and nutmeg, which lend the top notes a vibrant, cozy richness. The subtle, sharp touch of eugenol, with its medicinal edge, adds a unique depth, while the airy sparkle of aldehydes elevates the entire composition, giving it a dazzling, effervescent quality.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals its lush, floral core. The dominant carnation note emerges in full bloom—spicy, clove-like, and intoxicatingly rich—creating a sense of romantic sophistication. This fiery floral is softened by the delicate sweetness of rose and the creamy, narcotic allure of jasmine, which lend a timeless femininity. The addition of lavender introduces a herbal freshness, while the ethereal powderiness of heliotropin and the green spiciness of dianthine balance the intensity of the carnation. Surrounding these florals, subtle herbal nuances and the earthy verdancy of fern provide a grounding natural backdrop. As the middle notes deepen, the resinous warmth of myrrh and frankincense adds a mystical, smoky glow, evoking a sense of opulence and depth.

In the base, 20 Carats reveals its true character: a warm, enveloping sophistication. The resinous richness of labdanum, with its leathery undertones, melds seamlessly with the creamy sweetness of tonka bean and the balsamic depth of benzoin. Ambergris, with its salty, animalic quality, lends an aura of timeless luxury, while sandalwood provides a creamy, woody smoothness. The mossy earthiness of oakmoss and the sweet, coumarin-rich profile of tobacco create a warm, natural sensuality, enhanced by the velvety softness of vanillin and vanilla. The animalic undertones of civet absolute and musk lend a subtle, seductive allure, while the dark, smoky richness of patchouli and the green woodiness of vetiver anchor the scent with depth and sophistication.

As the fragrance settles, the interplay of spicy florals, warm resins, and earthy woods creates a captivating aura of complexity. 20 Carats shimmers like a finely cut gem, its facets sparkling with warmth, richness, and elegance. Each ingredient unfolds like a story, blending seamlessly into a perfume that feels timeless yet unique—a true embodiment of refined luxury.

Product Line:

The 20 Carats fragrance by Parfums Dana was more than just a perfume; it was a luxurious, multi-faceted product line designed to immerse its users in the opulence and sophistication of the scent. Each item in the collection allowed women to experience the fragrance in a variety of forms, catering to different preferences and moments of indulgence.

At the heart of the collection was the perfume, the most concentrated and luxurious form of the fragrance. Packaged in elegant bottles, the perfume captured the richness of the spicy floral fougère composition, making it ideal for special occasions or moments when a bold and lasting impression was desired.

For those who preferred a lighter application, the cologne offered a more subtle experience of the scent. This version was perfect for everyday wear, delivering the same sophistication in a more refreshing concentration.

Innovatively, Dana also introduced a stick solid cologne, a portable and practical option for touch-ups throughout the day. Packaged in a compact and stylish design, the solid cologne allowed women to carry the luxury of 20 Carats with them wherever they went.

To complement the fragrance line, bath oil was available, turning ordinary bathing routines into moments of indulgence. A few drops in the bath water released the warm, spicy floral aroma, enveloping the user in a luxurious and soothing experience.

For an all-over sensory experience, the product line included soap and lotion (loción). The soap, fragranced with the iconic scent, transformed daily cleansing into an aromatic ritual, leaving the skin lightly perfumed and refreshed. The lotion, on the other hand, provided a way to hydrate the skin while layering the fragrance, creating a lasting impression of warmth and sophistication.

To add a touch of glamour to personal care routines, Dana offered dusting powder. Lightly scented with 20 Carats, this product left the skin silky smooth and subtly perfumed, perfect for layering under the perfume or cologne for an enhanced, long-lasting effect.

By 1943, 20 Carats by Parfums Dana was offered in a range of sizes and formulations to cater to the diverse preferences of its customers. The Parfum, the most luxurious and concentrated version of the fragrance, was available in two sizes: 2/3 oz and 1 1/3 oz, presented in elegant packaging that underscored the sophistication of the scent. These offerings provided options for both personal indulgence and gifting, allowing women to own the iconic fragrance in its most opulent form.

Additionally, the Special Loción, a highly perfumed and intensely aromatic variation, was available in two generous sizes: 3/4 oz and 3 1/2 oz. This formulation offered a rich, long-lasting scent experience, perfect for those who preferred a bold statement or enjoyed layering their fragrance. The loción was ideal for everyday use or special occasions, adding a luxurious touch to personal care routines. Together, these options highlighted Parfums Dana’s dedication to versatility and refinement, ensuring 20 Carats remained a cherished choice for women seeking timeless elegance.

The comprehensive 20 Carats product line showcased Dana’s commitment to creating a complete fragrance experience, allowing women to immerse themselves in the scent from head to toe. Each product reflected the elegance and refinement of the 20 Carats name, ensuring the fragrance became an integral part of a woman's beauty and self-care rituals.

During the late 1940s and into the 1950s, Dana, like many prominent perfumers of the era, adapted to evolving international trade and regulatory requirements. Similar to Guerlain and other luxury fragrance houses, Dana began exporting its perfume essences to the United States, where the fragrances were compounded and bottled locally. This practice allowed the brand to navigate specific U.S. labeling laws that governed the importation and sale of perfumes.

As a result, bottles from this period often bear markings that indicate this process. Labels might include phrases such as “Made in U.S.A. with Imported Essences” or similar wording, reflecting the fact that while the fragrance oils were crafted to the brand’s high standards in Europe, the final product was assembled stateside. This approach not only ensured compliance with regulations but also made it easier to meet the growing demand for luxury fragrances among American consumers in the postwar boom years.

This practice was not unique to Dana; it was a common strategy employed by European perfumers to expand their presence in the lucrative U.S. market while maintaining the integrity of their brand’s reputation for quality and craftsmanship. For collectors and enthusiasts, these labels provide valuable historical insight, distinguishing the locally bottled editions from those entirely produced in Europe.

The Bottles:

What set 20 Carats apart from other fragrances of its time was the mesmerizing inclusion of real gold leaf pieces suspended within the perfume. Each time the bottle was gently shaken, the gold flecks would swirl and catch the light, creating a dazzling visual display that embodied opulence and indulgence. This unique feature was more than just a visual delight—it symbolized the refinement and glamour that women yearned for during the harsh realities of the Great Depression and the sacrifices of World War II. For many, 20 Carats offered an affordable luxury, an escape from the austere world around them, allowing them to reclaim a sense of beauty and elegance with every application.

The innovation did not stop there. Platine, the sister fragrance to 20 Carats, mirrored this luxurious concept by replacing gold with silver leaf flecks that floated within its shimmering liquid. Together, these two perfumes represented a new kind of affordable extravagance, where beauty, glamour, and aspiration were accessible even in the most challenging times. Displayed on a woman’s vanity, the radiant gold or silver-infused flacons served as symbols of hope and resilience—a reminder that even in times of struggle, beauty and luxury could prevail.

Over time, however, as the fragrance evolved, the inclusion of gold leaf in 20 Carats was discontinued. The later editions of the perfume, while still captivating in their scent, lacked the gilded flecks that had once been such a distinctive hallmark of the fragrance. For collectors and enthusiasts, these early gold-flecked editions remain a coveted piece of history, capturing a moment when Parfums Dana blended artistry and innovation to create a truly unforgettable experience.

The Fate of the Fragrance:

On Tuesday, August 19, 1952, a significant step was taken to solidify the legacy of 20 Carats, as a U.S. federal trademark registration was filed for 20 QUILATES 20 KS 20 CARATS. This multilingual branding reflected the fragrance’s global reach and appeal, catering to both English and Spanish-speaking audiences. The trademark was registered under the ownership of Les Parfums de Dana, Inc., headquartered in New York City, ZIP code 10017. By registering these variations of the name, Dana ensured the brand's identity would remain consistent across diverse markets.

The United States Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO) assigned the trademark the serial number 71634147, officially recognizing the commercial use of the name 20 Carats as early as 1934. This marked an essential chapter in the perfume’s history, linking its iconic status to the global market and protecting its name from imitation. For more than four decades, this trademark safeguarded the perfume’s unique identity, anchoring its luxurious reputation until its expiration in 1994.

After the expiration of the original trademark, the name 20 Carats found a new steward in Suzanne Thierry, who filed U.S. Trademark Application No. 78273631. This application aimed to revive the legacy of 20 Carats for use in perfume and other fragrance products, underscoring the enduring allure and recognition of the name. The transition of ownership demonstrated the timeless appeal of 20 Carats, ensuring its story would continue to captivate fragrance enthusiasts and maintain its place in the annals of perfume history.

1975 Reformulation:

Originally launched in 1933, 20 Carats held a cherished place in the hearts of women around the world for decades. By 1975, however, shifting fragrance preferences prompted Parfums Dana to reformulate the beloved perfume to cater to modern tastes. This new iteration maintained the original’s classification as a spicy-oriental fragrance, but subtle adjustments were made to create a lighter, more contemporary scent profile.

The reformulated 20 Carats softened the powerful carnation-spice notes that had defined the original, dialing back the heavy oriental richness reminiscent of its sister fragrance, Tabu. While the reimagined scent retained an undercurrent of warmth and sophistication, it introduced a subdued sweetness that appealed to a broader audience. The result was a fragrance that, while pleasant, leaned more conventional than its trailblazing predecessor. This change reflected the evolving tastes of the 1970s, when women sought perfumes that balanced elegance with approachability.

Packaging for the new 20 Carats was equally modernized to align with the streamlined aesthetics of the time. One of its standout offerings was a 2 oz Eau de Parfum Aerosol Spray, housed in a brushed-gold aluminum tube that featured a stylishly embossed "D" on the cap. This sleek, portable design not only exuded contemporary sophistication but also appealed to the practical sensibilities of women on the go.

While the reformulated version lacked some of the bold, unforgettable character of the original, it succeeded in introducing 20 Carats to a new generation, ensuring that the name remained synonymous with luxury and timeless elegance.

In 1975, Parfums Dana reintroduced 20 Carats with a striking advertisement designed to captivate a new generation of perfume lovers. The ad positioned the fragrance as the ultimate accessory for exuding confidence and elegance without the trappings of extravagance, declaring it to be the "essence of richness without spending a fortune." It cleverly played on the concept of wealth and independence, suggesting that wearing 20 Carats would make one feel "independently wealthy," unbound by reliance on clothes, money, or even hairdressers.

The new formula, as highlighted in the ad, was a complex melange of luxurious ingredients, blending flowers, moss, and fruit into a sumptuous scent profile. It listed precious oils such as frankincense, myrrh, musk, patchouli, rose, jasmine, clove, and oakmoss, evoking an air of opulence and sophistication while aligning with the contemporary preference for multi-layered, nuanced fragrances. This blend captured the essence of timeless luxury with a modern twist, appealing to women seeking both indulgence and accessibility.

Dana also emphasized the value and versatility of the 20 Carats range with an array of products to suit every need. The Parfum, described as a "high-interest investment," was priced at $35 per ounce, reflecting its premium nature. Meanwhile, more accessible options included the Spray Perfume Purser (¼ ounce for $6), a portable choice ideal for modern women, and the Eau de Parfum in two sizes: 2 ounces for $5 and 4 ounces for $7. For those seeking additional luxury, there was the Dusting Powder, offered at $4 for a 4-ounce container.

This cleverly worded ad struck a balance between exclusivity and approachability, portraying 20 Carats as a must-have indulgence that combined glamour with practicality. It invited women to see the fragrance not just as a scent, but as an extension of their personal style—an "invaluable commodity" that promised to transform their presence and leave an unforgettable impression.

For over five decades, 20 Carats captivated women around the globe, holding its position as a best-selling luxury fragrance and a hallmark of elegance. From its initial launch in 1933 to its reformulated revival in 1975, the perfume consistently appealed to those who sought sophistication and glamour in their personal scent. Its enduring allure was cemented by its availability in high-end department stores, where it was displayed alongside the finest offerings in luxury beauty.

The fragrance's longevity speaks to its ability to evolve with the times, maintaining a timeless appeal while adapting to shifting preferences. Its original spicy floral fougère formulation, with rich carnation and oriental notes, resonated with the elegance of pre-war Europe. Later, its softer, sweeter reformulation in the 1970s reflected a modern sensibility while retaining the prestige of its name.

Despite its success, the changing landscape of perfumery eventually led to 20 Carats being discontinued in 1987. Its departure marked the end of an era for a fragrance that had not only represented luxury but had also become a cherished part of countless women's lives. Today, 20 Carats is remembered as an icon of perfumery history—a scent that defined sophistication for over fifty years. Bottles and advertisements are now sought-after collectibles, reminders of a time when its golden essence reigned supreme.

New Packaging for the 1975 Reformulation: