Launched in 1955, Ambush by Dana is a fragrance that stands out not only for its composition but also for its provocative name. The choice of the name "Ambush" is intriguing, as it evokes strong imagery and emotions. The word "ambush" is derived from the French word embuscade, which refers to a surprise attack, often sudden and unexpected. The term carries a sense of stealth, tension, and unpredictability. It conjures images of something hidden, poised to strike, which contrasts with the more traditional, romantic names often chosen for perfumes. By naming their fragrance Ambush, Dana may have been looking to evoke a sense of allure, mystery, and sudden intrigue, inviting the wearer to embrace a bold and unexpected persona.
The 1950s was a transformative decade in many ways, particularly in the realms of fashion, culture, and perfume. It was a period marked by post-war optimism, the rise of youth culture, and an era of conspicuous consumption. This time was characterized by a resurgence of femininity in fashion, with Christian Dior’s "New Look" (1947) continuing to dominate the style of the early 1950s—full skirts, fitted waists, and an emphasis on hourglass silhouettes. Women’s clothing, though elegant and refined, began to evolve as the decade wore on, with designers like Pierre Cardin and Jacques Fath introducing more youthful and casual styles that embraced the growing demand for more freedom in movement and expression.
In the world of fragrance, the 1950s also saw a departure from the rich, heavy floral fragrances that had been the hallmark of earlier decades, moving towards scents that were fresher and more youthful. Perfumes became lighter, airier, and were often inspired by nature. The youth market was becoming a key demographic, and women were seeking perfumes that reflected their independence, modernity, and spirit. In this context, a fragrance like Ambush, with its slightly woody oriental notes and crisp, fruity accords, fits perfectly into the mood of the time. The scent suggests warmth and softness, yet it carries an intriguing depth that could evoke the complex emotions of a generation in flux.
For women of the 1950s, a perfume like Ambush might have been an embodiment of their changing roles in society. While the decade still embraced traditional notions of femininity, women were becoming more empowered, increasingly active in the workforce, and asserting their independence. Ambush might have appealed to these women because of its bold name, which suggested strength, mystery, and a certain daring. At a time when the perfume industry was dominated by lush florals and powdery, classical scents, Ambush would have offered something different—a fragrance that, like its name, was unexpected and subtly defiant.
Created by the renowned perfumer Jean Carles, Ambush is classified as a slightly woody oriental fragrance, with a notable presence of crisp, fruity notes. The fragrance opens with a refreshing burst of citrus and fruity elements, gradually settling into a warm, woody base. It is both light and substantial—soft yet enduring, with a sensual warmth that lingers on the skin. In many ways, Ambush reflects the youthful spirit of the era, capturing a sense of freshness and vitality while remaining rooted in a deeper, more complex oriental composition. Its warmth and softness would have made it ideal for a young woman seeking a fragrance that could transition effortlessly from day to night, much like the versatility that was beginning to define women's fashion in the 1950s.
In the broader context of 1950s perfumes, Ambush was not entirely unique but rather followed the emerging trends of the time. Oriental fragrances were becoming increasingly popular in the post-war period, with perfumes like Chanel No. 5 and Shalimar by Guerlain paving the way for more exotic, sensual compositions. However, where Ambush diverged was in its approachability. While many oriental perfumes were often heavy and opulent, Ambush offered a lighter, more youthful take on the genre. It catered to a new generation of women who were ready for something fresh but still craved the depth and intrigue of oriental notes. In this way, Ambush managed to capture both the spirit of its time and the enduring allure of more traditional, sensual fragrance profiles.
Fragrance Composition:
- Top notes: aldehydes, Sicilian lemon, Georgia peach, Calabrian bergamot, Bulgarian sage, melon, basil, Sicilian mandarin, Roman chamomile, Californian lime oil
- Middle notes: Grasse rose, Provencal lavender, plum, French carnation, Grasse jasmine, Hungarian angelica, Florentine iris, Bourbon geranium, Grasse reseda, Manila ylang ylang, Dutch orchid, Grasse heliotrope, clover
- Base notes: ambergris, Virginia cedar, Haitian vetiver, Mexican vanilla, Tyrolean oakmoss, Indian sandalwood, Seychelles patchouli, Venezuelan tonka bean and Tibetan musk
Scent Profile:
The top notes of Ambush are a brilliant opening, filled with a delicate balance of fresh fruitiness and soft, herbal hints. Aldehydes immediately greet the senses, their soapy, sparkling quality reminiscent of freshly laundered linens, with a clean, crisp aura that lingers in the air. They form the light, effervescent veil that allows the other ingredients to shine through. The Sicilian lemon adds an immediate burst of zesty, sharp brightness, its tangy citrusy edge more vibrant and aromatic than a typical lemon, with a hint of sweet creaminess that lingers delicately.
As the citrus notes settle, the Georgia peach reveals its soft, velvety sweetness. This peach isn’t the harsh, overripe variety, but rather a delicate, juicy fruit with a whisper of floral undertones, evoking the warmth of late summer. The Calabrian bergamot follows, offering its signature blend of tangy citrus zest with a slightly floral undertone. Known for its smooth, sophisticated flavor, this Italian bergamot is less bitter than others, with a sweetness that brings a sophisticated edge to the fragrance.
Meanwhile, the Bulgarian sage adds a subtle, herbaceous earthiness to the mix. This variety, prized for its softer, less pungent scent than its Mediterranean cousins, infuses the composition with an elegant touch of green, lightly aromatic freshness. The melon note brings a lush, watery sweetness that creates a rounded and soft backdrop, a sweet note that feels both juicy and refreshing. Basil, with its herbal and slightly spicy fragrance, cuts through the sweetness, providing a balancing herbal warmth that feels both calming and energizing.
From Sicily, the mandarin adds a dash of zestful citrus but with a rounder, less acidic twist than its lemon cousin, offering a sweet, refreshing lift. Roman chamomile follows with a soft, apple-like sweetness, its delicate floral aroma adding a soothing, almost tranquilizing quality. Finally, the Californian lime oil sparkles with a fresh, tangy burst—sharp and crisp, offering a fleeting moment of green zest, before fading into the heart of the fragrance.
The heart of Ambush unveils a luxurious floral bouquet that is complex and harmonious, enveloping you in the timeless elegance of classic perfumery. Grasse rose, the queen of flowers, lends its rich, velvety petals, which open up with a honeyed, slightly fruity sweetness. The roses from Grasse, France, are renowned for their distinctive depth, unlike any other, with a complexity that evokes both freshness and opulence.
In contrast, the Provencal lavender brings a dry, aromatic note that provides a soft, slightly herbal lavender essence with a warm, almost balsamic quality. This lavender from the south of France is revered for its clean, crisp fragrance and for the nuances it brings when compared to other more pungent varieties.
The plum brings a dark, juicy sweetness with a touch of tartness, its lush fruitiness balancing the more floral aspects of the composition. It’s full-bodied, evoking the warmth of ripe fruits on a late summer evening. Complementing the plum is the floral richness of French carnation, a flower known for its spicy, clove-like scent mixed with floral sweetness. This French carnation is exceptionally fragrant, with a multidimensional depth that elevates the heart.
Grasse jasmine, long held as the epitome of luxury, offers a deep, intoxicating floral note, lush and heady. It’s the embodiment of femininity—its honeyed, somewhat indolic character forms a bold, captivating presence. Hungarian angelica adds a green, herbal undertone, slightly spicy and earthy, grounding the floral explosion with its aromatic sharpness.
The Florentine iris, with its powdery, slightly woody aroma, introduces an air of refinement to the heart, its soft, floral nature gently linking the boldness of the florals to the underlying woods. Bourbon geranium, hailing from Reunion Island, offers an elegant, rose-like note with a slight minty, fresh edge, enhancing the floral complexity. The Grasse reseda is soft, green, and delicate, contributing an almost tender, floral sweetness that helps to round out the other bold florals.
Manila ylang-ylang, from the Philippines, contributes a deep, tropical floral richness, with hints of jasmine and spice. Its intoxicating fragrance feels rich and luxurious, adding a sensual warmth to the heart. Dutch orchid lends a touch of elegant, creamy floralcy with a soft, slightly musky undertone, while Grasse heliotrope provides a powdery, almond-like sweetness that feels almost nostalgic. Finally, the clover adds a soft, light sweetness, giving the heart an airy, fresh quality that balances the more complex, heady flowers.
The base of Ambush is a rich, warm tapestry of woods, resins, and earth, each element coming together to create a grounded, enduring finish. Ambergris, the prized material from sperm whales, adds a soft, musky warmth with oceanic nuances. It is sweet yet salty, deep and mysterious, enveloping the skin in a smooth, lingering warmth.
The Virginia cedar brings a dry, woody edge, its scent clear and sharp, but softened with time to create a smooth, calming presence. The Haitian vetiver, earthy and smoky, adds complexity with its deep, grounding quality—slightly woody, yet fresh, with a green richness that connects the fragrance to the earth.
From Mexico, the vanilla note is rich, warm, and slightly creamy, with a luscious sweetness that acts as the perfect base for the more complex, woody elements. Tyrolean oakmoss, with its dark, slightly leathery, and earthy aroma, enhances the depth of the fragrance, adding a timeless quality often associated with classic chypres.
The Indian sandalwood is smooth, creamy, and rich, providing a soft, woody foundation with a hint of sweetness. The Seychelles patchouli, with its tropical, herbal richness, brings an earthiness that cuts through the sweetness of the vanilla and sandalwood, adding layers of complexity and sensuality. From Venezuela, the tonka bean adds a sweet, warm, and slightly spicy richness, with hints of almond, vanilla, and cinnamon, further enhancing the luxurious depth of the base.
Finally, the Tibetan musk—clean, animalic, and woody—adds an ethereal, almost spiritual quality to the composition, its rich, earthy scent enveloping the wearer in warmth and intrigue, providing a lasting, sensuous trail.
Together, these ingredients combine to form a fragrance that is both youthful and sophisticated, balancing fresh brightness with sensual depth, capturing the essence of a modern, adventurous woman in the 1950s while remaining timeless in its appeal.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Ambush by Dana, originally a popular fragrance known for its distinctive blend of vibrant top notes and a warm, rich base, experienced a significant change in its availability and formulation over the years. The original version, cherished for its unique composition, was discontinued sometime in the 1970s. This discontinuation left many fans nostalgic for the iconic scent that had encapsulated a blend of crisp fruity notes, warm woody undertones, and a rich floral heart.
In 1997, recognizing the enduring appeal of Ambush, the fragrance was reformulated with modern ingredients, re-packaged, and re-launched. The aim was to capture the essence of the original while updating the formula to meet contemporary standards and preferences. This modern iteration sought to retain the core identity of Ambush, with its lively aldehydic opening, lush floral heart, and warm, sensual base. However, as often happens with reformulations, some nuances of the original scent were inevitably altered, leading to a slightly different olfactory experience. The re-launch brought the fragrance back into the market, allowing a new generation to discover its charms, while also catering to the nostalgia of longtime fans.
Despite the efforts to revitalize the brand and fragrance, the reformulated Ambush did not remain on the market indefinitely. Eventually, the fragrance was discontinued again, leaving it as a cherished memory for those who had loved both its original and modern versions. The discontinuation of Ambush marked the end of an era for a scent that had once been a hallmark of youth and romance, celebrated for its imaginative blend of light-hearted notes and warm, comforting base. The legacy of Ambush by Dana lives on in the memories of those who experienced its unique blend, and in the occasional vintage bottles that surface, offering a nostalgic glimpse into the past.
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