Kali by Dana was introduced in 1943, a time when the world was engulfed in the turmoil of World War II. In the midst of such chaos, the choice of the name "Kali" is particularly evocative, as it draws from the rich tapestry of Hindu mythology. The name Kali originates from the Sanskrit word "kāla," which means "black" or "time," and it is associated with the Hindu goddess Kali, a figure often depicted in duality. On one hand, she embodies destruction and darkness, famously known for slaying demons and symbolizing the fierce aspects of feminine power. On the other hand, she is revered as a compassionate mother-goddess, a protector who aids her devotees. This duality evokes a spectrum of emotions—from fear and awe to comfort and nurturing—making the name Kali both powerful and complex.
In terms of scent, Kali was classified as an oriental fragrance, a category known for its warmth and exotic depth. The name itself conjures images of rich, dark spices, velvety florals, and sensual woods, capturing the essence of both the goddess's fierce nature and her nurturing side. American women of the time, navigating a world shaped by war, may have been drawn to this fragrance not only for its aromatic qualities but also for its symbolic connotations. Kali would have offered an escape, a touch of the exotic, and a reminder of the strength inherent in femininity.
The early 1940s were marked by a growing interest in Eastern cultures, largely influenced by the global war and the influx of soldiers returning home with stories from distant lands. This fascination extended into various aspects of American life, including film, art, fashion, and perfumery. Indian aesthetics began to surface in Hollywood films, often portrayed through opulent costumes and rich narratives that showcased a world of mystique. Artists and designers drew inspiration from Indian motifs and textiles, integrating them into mainstream fashion, which helped to create a sense of allure around all things Eastern.
In the context of perfumery, the use of exotic names and ingredients became increasingly popular as fragrance houses sought to capture the imagination of consumers. The choice of a name like Kali reflected not only a burgeoning interest in Indian culture but also a desire for fragrances that resonated with deeper meanings and emotional connections. As such, Kali by Dana encapsulated a moment in time, where the complexities of war coexisted with a yearning for beauty, strength, and the exotic, offering women an olfactory experience that was both empowering and evocative.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women.
- Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, Italian neroli, aldehydes, Moroccan cardamom, Jamaican pepper, Hungarian angelica
- Middle notes: French carnation, Grasse jasmine, Grasse rose, Manila ylang ylang, Tunisian orange blossom, Arabian myrrh, Omani frankincense
- Base notes: Sumatran styrax, Ethiopian civet, Peru balsam, leather, Mysore sandalwood, Indonesian patchouli, Tonkin musk, Madagascan vanilla, Siamese benzoin, ambergris, Maltese labdanum, Atlas cedar
Scent Profile:
The top notes of Kali open with an invigorating burst of crisp citrus and spicy warmth. The Calabrian bergamot, famed for its smooth, aromatic quality, offers a zesty freshness that's less acidic than other varieties, its slightly sweet undertones lifting the fragrance with a light, effervescent vibrancy. It’s an immediately bright and welcoming note, smooth and aromatic, evoking the sunny Italian coast where it’s grown. Italian neroli, with its characteristic blend of citrus and delicate floral notes, adds a sophisticated, radiant edge. This neroli is distinguished by its intense, fragrant blossom—a more refined and aromatic variety compared to nerolis from other regions. Its floral citrus notes are both uplifting and calming, with a refreshing green undertone that feels both crisp and subtly sweet.
The presence of aldehydes elevates the composition with their signature clean, soapy sparkle. They shimmer like light reflecting off glass, their effervescence giving the fragrance an airy, transparent quality. Aldehydes are often used to open a perfume with an avant-garde freshness, which in Kali, balances the deep richness of the oriental elements to come. Moroccan cardamom, with its warm, spicy sweetness, adds a unique depth to the opening notes. This variety of cardamom, grown in the arid Moroccan climate, is slightly more aromatic and resinous compared to other cardamom varieties. It has a gentle heat to it, with hints of citrus, ginger, and a peppery warmth that mingles effortlessly with the other ingredients.
Jamaican pepper, known for its pungent, spicy kick, introduces a sharp, slightly smoky warmth. This peppery note is peppered with an underlying sweetness that sharpens the senses and creates an energetic, slightly exotic burst of warmth. The Hungarian angelica completes the top notes with a touch of green, herbal freshness. Angelica from Hungary is particularly renowned for its clear, almost crystalline aroma, which is both aromatic and slightly woody with a peppery edge. It adds an earthy, green vibrancy to the otherwise spicy and citrus-forward opening.
As the fragrance evolves, the heart opens with a rich, intoxicating blend of florals. The French carnation, with its spicy, clove-like quality, imbues the heart with a bold, spicy-floral warmth that creates a vintage elegance. Carnations from France are particularly prized for their depth and roundness, offering a fragrance that is both sweet and warm, full-bodied and complex.
Grasse jasmine is a true opulence of the heart, bringing a deep, intoxicating floral note. Its honeyed richness, infused with hints of indole, gives the fragrance a sensual, almost animalistic quality. The jasmine from Grasse, France, is considered one of the finest varieties in the world due to its unique depth and nuanced character. It's not just sweet, but full-bodied and warm, with layers of complexity that make it an ideal floral centerpiece. Grasse rose adds a rich, velvety sweetness to the heart of Kali, its floral profile intense and radiant. The roses from Grasse are unparalleled for their complexity, offering an aromatic sweetness that is at once fresh and opulent. The slight fruity undertones provide an elegant counterbalance to the more animalic elements.
The exotic Manila ylang-ylang introduces a deep, sensual floral note with a creamy, tropical richness. From the Philippines, this variety is known for its intoxicatingly sweet, almost heady fragrance. Ylang-ylang brings an enveloping warmth, its floral profile both exotic and comforting, with a touch of spice that adds an air of mystery. Tunisian orange blossom gives the heart a bright, uplifting quality, with its sweet, honeyed, and slightly green floral aroma. The orange blossoms from Tunisia are particularly revered for their richness, a bit more intense and less citrus-forward than those from other regions. Their fragrance is light but enveloping, adding a fresh yet opulent dimension to the floral blend.
Arabian myrrh imparts a rich, balsamic depth to the heart, adding a resinous, almost smoky quality. It’s an ancient ingredient, prized for its warm, earthy scent, which pairs perfectly with the florals to anchor them in a deep, resinous base. Omani frankincense joins the myrrh with its ethereal, smoky warmth. The frankincense from Oman is particularly prized for its superior quality, offering a smoother, more refined resinous aroma compared to other types of frankincense. Its spicy, slightly citrusy woodiness adds a mystical, almost spiritual quality to the fragrance.
As Kali settles into its base, the scent deepens into a rich, earthy, and sensual finish. Sumatran styrax adds a soft, balsamic sweetness with its rich, resinous nature. The styrax from Sumatra, Indonesia, is known for its depth and complexity, with notes of caramel, resin, and smoky wood. It adds a creamy, warm richness that blends beautifully with the other resins and woods in the base. The Ethiopian civet contributes a sensual, animalic warmth. This civet, sourced from Ethiopia, is prized for its less overpowering and more nuanced scent, which has a musky, slightly woody warmth. It brings a raw, almost primal depth to the fragrance, adding a touch of mystery and allure.
Peru balsam adds a rich, vanilla-like sweetness with its balsamic, resinous character. This ingredient’s deep warmth adds complexity to the base, giving it an enveloping, slightly sweet, and smoky richness.
The leather note contributes an earthy, smoky richness, creating a tactile, sensual dimension. This is not a harsh, overpowering leather, but rather a soft, supple note that gives the fragrance an air of sophistication and timeless luxury. It feels warm, deep, and intimate, like the smooth interior of a well-worn leather bag.
Mysore sandalwood lends a creamy, woody sweetness, often considered the finest sandalwood in the world. Its rich, velvety aroma adds an earthy warmth to the fragrance, its creamy, milky quality grounding the more ethereal notes and giving the fragrance a smooth, elegant finish. The Indonesian patchouli adds a dark, earthy depth to the base. Unlike other patchouli varieties, Indonesian patchouli is known for its smooth, almost sweet earthiness, with a slightly woody and herbal character. It provides an enveloping warmth that adds sensuality and complexity to the fragrance.
Tonkin musk gives the fragrance a subtle, animalic warmth, almost imperceptible yet undeniable in its depth. It contributes a soft, musky sweetness that feels intimate and alluring, grounding the more complex elements of the base with its understated sensuality. Madagascan vanilla lends a creamy, sweet warmth to the base. Vanilla from Madagascar is renowned for its smooth, rich, and deep aroma—sweeter and more complex than other vanilla varieties. It adds a soft, comforting warmth that balances the other deeper, more resinous ingredients.
Siamese benzoin adds a soft, balsamic sweetness, with resinous and slightly powdery nuances that contribute to the overall warmth of the fragrance. This type of benzoin, from Thailand, is known for its delicate, almost almond-like sweetness that adds a layer of sophistication to the perfume. Ambergris, from the depths of the sea, brings an elusive, smooth, and warm animalic scent that wraps around the wearer like a cloud of warmth. It’s a rare and luxurious ingredient known for its longevity and depth, which gives the fragrance a sensual, musky edge that persists beautifully on the skin.
Maltese labdanum offers a dark, resinous warmth, adding an almost leathery, balsamic sweetness. Labdanum from Malta is prized for its rich, complex aroma, which blends well with ambergris and other resins to create a warm, slightly smoky backdrop. Finally, Atlas cedar from the mountains of Morocco gives the fragrance a dry, woody backbone. This cedar is prized for its fine grain and its smooth, soft, almost sweet woodiness, which adds a grounding, calming finish to the complex blend of ingredients in Kali.
Together, these notes create a complex and evocative fragrance—a sophisticated, sensual, and mystical composition that evokes the depth and richness of ancient traditions while remaining timeless and modern in its appeal.
Bottle:
Kali was presented in an elegant and striking black glass bottle that perfectly captured the mystery and exotic allure of the fragrance. The bottle itself was rectangular in shape, its lines softened by rounded shoulders that gave it a sense of fluidity and grace. This sleek black glass, with its glossy, reflective surface, exuded a sense of luxury and sophistication, a bold choice for a perfume meant to evoke both the darkness and beauty of the Hindu goddess Kali. The stopper, a small, faceted cylindrical piece also crafted from black glass, added a subtle contrast in texture and shape. Its facets caught the light, creating an understated shimmer against the otherwise dark form, inviting the hand to touch and the eye to linger.
At the heart of the design was the perfume’s distinctive label, rendered in stark white against the inky black bottle. A striking female figure danced across the label, her form unmistakably mythological. The figure, with four arms and an ornate headdress, was a clear reference to the Hindu goddess Kali—often portrayed in a dynamic dance, embodying both destruction and creation. The intricate headdress and the figure’s graceful pose brought an air of exoticism and mysticism, echoing the oriental roots of the fragrance. The contrast of black and white in the label design heightened the visual drama, emphasizing the powerful duality inherent in the perfume’s inspiration.
Further details added to the allure of the packaging. The base of the bottle was discreetly impressed with "Dana Made in France," a reminder of the perfume house's prestigious heritage and the fine craftsmanship that went into creating the scent. The black glass itself, cool and weighty in the hand, offered a tactile sense of luxury, as though holding something rare and precious from a distant land.
Kali parfum was available in two sizes—1 oz and a slightly larger 1 1/32 oz bottle—offering a choice for women who desired this enigmatic fragrance. In addition to the perfume, Kali was also available as a brilliantine, a hair grooming product that could be scented with the same exotic aroma. The availability of brilliantine added another layer of elegance, allowing women not only to wear the fragrance on their skin but to imbue their hair with the same rich, oriental scent. This multifaceted offering of Kali enhanced its allure, making it more than just a perfume, but a symbol of personal luxury and mystique.
Period Advertisements:
Pittsburgh Post-Gazette - Aug 31, 1950:
"Less than a month old are Dana's Canoe and Kali, as haunting aromas as Dana's other perfumes."
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