Kali by Dana c1950

Kali by Dana was introduced in 1943, a time when the world was engulfed in the turmoil of World War II. In the midst of such chaos, the choice of the name "Kali" is particularly evocative, as it draws from the rich tapestry of Hindu mythology. The name Kali originates from the Sanskrit word "kāla," which means "black" or "time," and it is associated with the Hindu goddess Kali, a figure often depicted in duality. On one hand, she embodies destruction and darkness, famously known for slaying demons and symbolizing the fierce aspects of feminine power. On the other hand, she is revered as a compassionate mother-goddess, a protector who aids her devotees. This duality evokes a spectrum of emotions—from fear and awe to comfort and nurturing—making the name Kali both powerful and complex.

In terms of scent, Kali was classified as an oriental fragrance, a category known for its warmth and exotic depth. The name itself conjures images of rich, dark spices, velvety florals, and sensual woods, capturing the essence of both the goddess's fierce nature and her nurturing side. American women of the time, navigating a world shaped by war, may have been drawn to this fragrance not only for its aromatic qualities but also for its symbolic connotations. Kali would have offered an escape, a touch of the exotic, and a reminder of the strength inherent in femininity.

The early 1940s were marked by a growing interest in Eastern cultures, largely influenced by the global war and the influx of soldiers returning home with stories from distant lands. This fascination extended into various aspects of American life, including film, art, fashion, and perfumery. Indian aesthetics began to surface in Hollywood films, often portrayed through opulent costumes and rich narratives that showcased a world of mystique. Artists and designers drew inspiration from Indian motifs and textiles, integrating them into mainstream fashion, which helped to create a sense of allure around all things Eastern.

In the context of perfumery, the use of exotic names and ingredients became increasingly popular as fragrance houses sought to capture the imagination of consumers. The choice of a name like Kali reflected not only a burgeoning interest in Indian culture but also a desire for fragrances that resonated with deeper meanings and emotional connections. As such, Kali by Dana encapsulated a moment in time, where the complexities of war coexisted with a yearning for beauty, strength, and the exotic, offering women an olfactory experience that was both empowering and evocative.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as an oriental fragrance for women.  

• Top notes: bergamot, neroli, aldehydes, cardamom, pepper, angelica
• Middle notes: carnation, jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, orange blossom, myrrh, frankincense
• Base notes: styrax, civet, Peru balsam, leather, sandalwood, patchouli, musk, vanilla, benzoin, ambergris, labdanum, cedar

Scent Profile:

Imagine encountering Kali, an oriental fragrance for women, as its top notes unfold in front of you, one by one. The first burst of scent is the bright and lively essence of bergamot, a citrusy freshness that feels like the zest of an orange but with a slightly bitter, green edge. It's uplifting, sharp, and energizing, instantly transporting you to a sunlit orchard in late summer. 

Following close behind, neroli blooms, with its softly sweet and slightly honeyed aroma, evoking white orange blossoms after a morning rain. It is delicate yet full of life, balancing freshness with a gentle floral sweetness. Then, the subtle sparkle of aldehydes arrives—clean, crisp, and somewhat soapy—lifting the fragrance and adding a soft, airy quality like fresh linens in a breeze. 

As the spice warms up, cardamom makes its presence known, with its cool, sweet, and slightly camphorous scent that’s both refreshing and exotic, like a faraway marketplace brimming with spices. The last hint of pepper follows, adding a dry, piquant kick that tingles the senses, rounding out the spicy top notes with a touch of heat and intrigue.

As the top notes mellow, the heart of Kali reveals itself in a rich, intoxicating bouquet of florals. Carnation stands out first, with its spicy, clove-like fragrance that is soft yet slightly peppery, adding an old-world, nostalgic charm to the perfume. It’s quickly joined by the heady jasmine, sultry and opulent, as though its white petals are exuding their powerful, sweet aroma in the heat of a summer night. 

Jasmine's hypnotic richness is perfectly complemented by rose, a deep, velvety floral that feels romantic and lush, blooming with a timeless femininity that’s both sweet and slightly earthy. 

Then, ylang-ylang appears, with its exotic, fruity floral character that adds a creamy, tropical warmth to the heart. It’s as though you’re surrounded by wild, tropical flowers at dusk, their fragrance lingering in the humid air. Orange blossom ties the floral notes together, its sweet, radiant presence bringing a touch of brightness, reminiscent of orange groves in full bloom, light and joyful, yet complex.

As the florals soften and fade, Kali settles into its deep, sensuous base. Sandalwood emerges first, with its creamy, smooth woodiness that feels like silk on the skin—soft, warm, and almost milky in its richness. Its calming scent is both grounding and elegant. Next, patchouli rises with its earthy, slightly sweet, and dark aroma. Its scent is deep and mysterious, conjuring images of forests after the rain, where the earth is rich and damp. 

Musk adds a sensual, animalic warmth, a soft and almost skin-like scent that clings gently to the body, amplifying the sensuality of the other base notes. The sweetness of vanilla follows, rich and creamy, adding a gourmand touch that feels comforting and enveloping, as though the scent is wrapping you in a warm, sweet embrace.

The final layers of the base bring more resinous depth. Benzoin adds a rich, balsamic sweetness with hints of vanilla and caramel, enhancing the warmth of the fragrance, while ambergris introduces a subtle, salty depth, reminiscent of the sea. Its mysterious, slightly animalic quality lingers in the background, adding intrigue and a sense of ancient luxury. 

Labdanum, with its resinous, leathery scent, provides an additional layer of warmth and richness, like smoldering incense in an ancient temple. Finally, cedar ties everything together with its clean, dry, and slightly smoky woodiness, grounding the composition with a refined, elegant finish.

Together, Kali is an intoxicating blend of contrasts: bright and spicy, floral and creamy, earthy and resinous. It’s a fragrance that evokes mystery, sensuality, and the timeless allure of the East, transporting you to a place of exotic beauty and complex femininity.

Bottle:

Kali was presented in an elegant and striking black glass bottle that perfectly captured the mystery and exotic allure of the fragrance. The bottle itself was rectangular in shape, its lines softened by rounded shoulders that gave it a sense of fluidity and grace. This sleek black glass, with its glossy, reflective surface, exuded a sense of luxury and sophistication, a bold choice for a perfume meant to evoke both the darkness and beauty of the Hindu goddess Kali. The stopper, a small, faceted cylindrical piece also crafted from black glass, added a subtle contrast in texture and shape. Its facets caught the light, creating an understated shimmer against the otherwise dark form, inviting the hand to touch and the eye to linger.

At the heart of the design was the perfume’s distinctive label, rendered in stark white against the inky black bottle. A striking female figure danced across the label, her form unmistakably mythological. The figure, with four arms and an ornate headdress, was a clear reference to the Hindu goddess Kali—often portrayed in a dynamic dance, embodying both destruction and creation. The intricate headdress and the figure’s graceful pose brought an air of exoticism and mysticism, echoing the oriental roots of the fragrance. The contrast of black and white in the label design heightened the visual drama, emphasizing the powerful duality inherent in the perfume’s inspiration.

Further details added to the allure of the packaging. The base of the bottle was discreetly impressed with "Dana Made in France," a reminder of the perfume house's prestigious heritage and the fine craftsmanship that went into creating the scent. The black glass itself, cool and weighty in the hand, offered a tactile sense of luxury, as though holding something rare and precious from a distant land.

Kali parfum was available in two sizes—1 oz and a slightly larger 1 1/32 oz bottle—offering a choice for women who desired this enigmatic fragrance. In addition to the perfume, Kali was also available as a brilliantine, a hair grooming product that could be scented with the same exotic aroma. The availability of brilliantine added another layer of elegance, allowing women not only to wear the fragrance on their skin but to imbue their hair with the same rich, oriental scent. This multifaceted offering of Kali enhanced its allure, making it more than just a perfume, but a symbol of personal luxury and mystique.

Period Advertisements:

Pittsburgh Post-Gazette - Aug 31, 1950:

"Less than a month old are Dana's Canoe and Kali, as haunting aromas as Dana's other perfumes."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Kali was probably discontinued by the 1960s.