Emir by Dana c1935

Emir by Dana was launched in 1935 in France, a decade defined by the pursuit of elegance and escape. The world was still in the throes of the Great Depression, and the opulent fantasy of the East captivated the imagination of the West. Perfume houses, ever attuned to cultural fascinations, often turned to exoticism to craft fragrances that transported the wearer to distant lands of wealth, intrigue, and splendor. Emir was Dana’s answer to this longing for luxury—a scent steeped in mystery, inspired by the grandeur of the Persian courts, and designed to evoke the golden age of perfumery.

The name Emir was a deliberate and evocative choice. Derived from Arabic (أمير, pronounced “ay-MEER”), the word means “prince” or “commander.” It carries connotations of nobility, power, and a lineage of rulers who presided over grand courts filled with silks, jewels, and, most importantly, exquisite fragrances. Dana’s founder, Javier Serra, understood that perfume was more than a scent—it was a gateway to fantasy. A 1949 newspaper article recounted how Dana sought inspiration in the courts of Persian Emirs, where perfume was not merely a luxury but a treasure, a gift worthy of royalty. It was whispered that a fragrance bearing the Emir’s name could work magic, weaving an aura of enchantment around its wearer. "You can almost believe, as you wear the Emir’s perfume, that at night—anything can happen."

Women of the United States had to visit Cuban shops in order to obtain the perfume, which was unavailable in America at that time. By the time Emir was introduced to the American market in 1939, the world had endured the devastation of the Great Depression, which ushered in a period of both uncertainty and hope. Women, many of whom had to economize or do without, hungered for beauty, for indulgence, for the ability to dream again. A perfume named Emir would have embodied these desires, offering a touch of the exotic, a return to old-world grandeur, and a sense of opulence that had been missing for years.

The fragrance itself was a masterpiece by Jean Carles, the legendary perfumer known for his innovative, structured approach to composition. Emir was classified as a woody-leathery chypre, a bold and striking choice for a women’s fragrance. At its heart, it was a rich and heavy oriental scent, laden with spices and warmth, yet softened by a whisper of fresh, clean, soapy notes. This contrast—an interplay between sultry depth and luminous clarity—set Emir apart. It was a perfume of shifting moods, taking on varied tones depending on the wearer, like the flickering glow of lanterns in an opulent Persian palace.

In the broader landscape of perfumery, Emir both aligned with and stood apart from the prevailing trends of the time. The 1930s and 1940s saw a fascination with chypres and orientals—fragrances that exuded sophistication, sensuality, and mystery. Scents like Shalimar by Guerlain and Tabu by Dana had already carved a space for deep, exotic compositions. However, Emir took this concept further by merging the warmth of the East with the structured elegance of a classic chypre. It was not just an oriental fantasy but a scent that carried the weight of history, nobility, and grandeur.

When exported to Spanish-speaking countries, Emir was rebranded as Califa, another title of nobility, reinforcing its essence of regality and mystique. Though the name changed, the spirit of the fragrance remained the same—a treasure of a scent, steeped in romance, a dream of Persian nights bottled for those who longed for something beyond the ordinary.

 "Because of this completely new perfume, you dare to dream again"

In 1947, Emir by Dana was reintroduced to the American market with much fanfare, marking a significant milestone in the brand’s legacy. The fragrance, created in Paris, was presented as part of Dana’s ambitious expansion into the U.S., where it was paired with a matching cologne to offer a full experience of its exotic allure. Consolidated Cosmetics & Dana Perfumes was the driving force behind its stateside debut, a move that saw Emir positioned not just as a perfume, but as an olfactory narrative of untold luxury and intrigue.

A newspaper ad from the same year perfectly captured the spirit of Emir, inviting consumers to imagine the world of the Persian Emirs: "Reminiscent of the night a Persian Emir chose his queen," the ad promised. This powerful imagery set Emir apart from the other perfumes on the market, hinting at something more—something regal, exotic, and rare. It was a fragrance designed for a woman who was not only distinctive but also deserving of the splendor and mystery embodied by the name Emir. With this launch, Dana sought to elevate perfume to an almost mythical status, giving it a narrative steeped in luxury and romance.

The Emir story was not merely about the perfume itself, but about the concept it represented: a gift so precious that it bore the prince’s name, a rare token of admiration in a world that had long been enchanted by the East. A 1952 article in Home Journal elaborated on the opulence of this gift, noting, "Not even the most assured women at the Court dared to ask for this fabulous perfume." The suggestion was that Emir was not a fragrance to be requested—it was a gift that only the worthy could receive. This narrative played on the exclusivity of the scent, with a price range from a modest $2.75 to a luxurious $35.00, making it accessible to those who could afford a taste of royalty, but still out of reach for many.

In this way, Emir became more than just a fragrance; it was a symbol of luxury and power, a story told through scent. The perfume’s rich, complex notes mirrored the grandeur of its inspirations—the lush gardens of Persian palaces, the sumptuous robes of their rulers, and the treasures bestowed upon favored courtiers. By intertwining such evocative imagery with its launch, Dana presented Emir as a gateway to an exotic and elusive world, capturing the attention of women who longed for something unique and daring in a post-war world ready to embrace new fantasies and luxuries.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a woody leathery chypre fragrance for women. It is an unearthly scent, a heavy, spice laden Oriental, with a touch of Spring like freshness of clean soapy notes. Dana's treasure of a fragrance, Emir is like something out of the Arabian Nights. In the simplest of terms: a chypre type, warm, woody-mossy-leafy-spicy.

• Top notes: aldehydes, Guatemala citronella, Brazilian lemongrass, Calabrian bergamot, Japanese camphor
• Middle notes: Russian coriander, Bulgarian rose, Florentine iris, Manila ylang ylang, Omani frankincense, Grasse jasmine, French carnation, Persian galbanum, Zanzibar cloves, Ceylon cinnamon, Jamaican nutmeg, Alpine lily of the valley,
• Base notes: Italian orris, Arabian opoponax, Mexican vanilla, Maltese labdanum, Colombian tolu balsam, leather, Tibetan musk, Mysore sandalwood, Siam benzoin, Indonesian patchouli, Bohemian oakmoss, Java vetiver, Virginia cedar, Ethiopian civet, ambergris, Somali olibanum

Scent Profile:

The first breath of Emir is a striking contrast of freshness and warmth, where aldehydes create an effervescent shimmer, like light glinting off a golden surface. Their soapy brightness is softened by the crisp citrus of Guatemalan citronella, which lacks the sharp, insect-repelling quality often associated with it; instead, it presents a luminous lemony-green note with a slightly earthy depth. This pairs with Brazilian lemongrass, which is richer and more herbaceous than its Southeast Asian counterpart, exuding a verdant, slightly spicy citrus scent. 

Calabrian bergamot, the crown jewel of Mediterranean citruses, adds its sun-drenched sparkle—fruity, tart, and delicately floral, creating a refined citrus lift. Just as the freshness threatens to become too crisp, Japanese camphor unfurls with an almost medicinal coolness, cutting through the brightness with its sharp, woody edge, evoking the clean, almost mentholated scent of ancient temple wood.

As the citrusy, aldehydic opening settles, the heart of Emir begins to weave its magic—a rich, spiced tapestry of florals and resins. Russian coriander steps forward first, its warm, peppery bite softened by a hint of citrus and crushed leaves. Then, the opulence of Bulgarian rose floods the senses: deep, honeyed, velvety, and slightly damask-like, its petals steeped in history and grandeur. 

This is joined by the powdery coolness of Florentine iris, whose buttery, suede-like elegance gives the fragrance a smooth, aristocratic texture. The exotic creaminess of Manila ylang ylang emerges next, its waxy white petals exuding a narcotic, banana-tinged sweetness that lingers sensuously. Omani frankincense brings a sacred smokiness, its resinous depth rich and meditative, evoking the ancient spice trails of the East.

The floral notes deepen with Grasse jasmine, whose sun-warmed, slightly indolic sweetness intertwines with the peppery-spiced clove facets of French carnation. The piercing green sharpness of Persian galbanum cuts through this floral opulence, its resinous, almost bitter greenness grounding the composition. 

Zanzibar cloves and Ceylon cinnamon infuse the fragrance with warmth—clove's fiery, slightly medicinal bite balanced by the dry, almost woody heat of cinnamon. The exotic richness of Jamaican nutmeg amplifies the spiced warmth, its nutty sweetness blending seamlessly with the floral heart, while Alpine lily of the valley lends an unexpected freshness—a delicate, dewy whisper amid the heady bouquet.

As Emir dries down, the base unfolds like the pages of an ancient, leather-bound tome—dark, resinous, and deeply sensual. Italian orris lingers with its soft, violet-tinged earthiness, while Arabian opoponax glows with its honeyed balsamic warmth, its slightly smoky amber facets enhancing the resinous depth of Maltese labdanum. The richness continues with Colombian tolu balsam, its sticky, vanillic-sweet warmth blending into the luxurious, supple aroma of leather, evoking aged saddles and well-worn book bindings. The animalic undertones of Tibetan musk and Ethiopian civet create a sensual, almost feral depth, their warmth wrapping around the composition like a second skin.

The woods emerge in waves—Mysore sandalwood, prized for its creamy, incense-like smoothness, melds with the sweet, resinous warmth of Siam benzoin, while Indonesian patchouli lends its deep, earthy richness, tinged with a chocolatey, damp forest-like quality. The dusky Bohemian oakmoss brings its signature mossy-leafy depth, shadowed and green, anchoring Emir in classic chypre territory. Java vetiver adds a smoky, almost leathery dryness, blending seamlessly with the sturdy, pencil-shavings sharpness of Virginia cedar. Finally, smoldering Somali olibanum, a cousin of frankincense, casts a final whisper of sacred smoke, mingling with the salty, oceanic depth of ambergris, leaving a trail that lingers—mystical, enigmatic, and utterly intoxicating.

Emir is more than a fragrance; it is an olfactory journey through time and place, weaving together the exotic opulence of the East with the refined structure of French perfumery. It is a scent that commands attention, mysterious and regal, embodying the grandeur of the courts from which it draws its inspiration.

Product Line:

Emir by Dana was available in a variety of luxurious formulations, allowing its admirers to indulge in the fragrance in several ways, each designed to enhance the experience of wearing this iconic scent. The cologne, with its light yet deeply evocative fragrance, was a perfect choice for everyday wear, offering a subtle aura of the exotic without overwhelming the senses. Its freshness made it versatile, easily worn throughout the day or as a quick refresh before an evening out.

• 2 oz Colonia (Cologne)
• 4 oz Colonia (Cologne)
• 8 oz Colonia (Cologne)
• 16 oz Colonia (Cologne)
• 32 oz Colonia (Cologne)

 

The perfume, rich and full-bodied, was the centerpiece of the Emir collection. In its purest form, it embodied the full depth of the fragrance, its woody, leathery chypre notes unfurling on the skin in a long-lasting, luxurious embrace. This version was for those who sought the full experience of Emir, capturing its mysterious, opulent spirit in every drop.

• 3/8 oz Parfum
• 1/2 oz Parfum
• 1 oz Parfum
• 2 oz Parfum
• 3 oz Parfum
• 4 oz Parfum

For those who enjoyed the ritual of scent beyond just the bottle, Emir also came in hair lotion, a unique product that allowed wearers to infuse their locks with the fragrance. This was an elegant way to carry the scent throughout the day, as the fragrance lingered softly in the hair, radiating a light, captivating trail.

• 3/4 oz (Special Lotion, intensely perfumed)
• 2 2/3 oz Locion (Special Lotion, intensely perfumed)
• 5 1/2 oz Locion (Special Lotion, intensely perfumed)

The body sachet powder and dusting powder offered an additional indulgence, with fine particles that dusted the skin in a soft veil of fragrance. These products not only provided a lingering scent but also helped absorb moisture and leave the skin feeling silky smooth, making them ideal for daily use or after a relaxing bath.

Solid Brilliantine refers to a type of hair or scalp treatment that was popular in the early-to-mid 20th century. It was a solid, waxy substance typically used to add shine, smoothness, and a bit of hold to the hair. Unlike liquid hair pomades, which could be more greasy and prone to dripping, solid brilliantine offered a more controlled, elegant way to maintain a well-groomed appearance. It was often used by men and women to achieve a glossy, sleek look, making hair appear polished and glossy without being too heavy or oily. For women, especially in the 1930s through the 1950s, brilliantine was sometimes marketed as part of an overall beauty routine, intended to enhance the smooth, glossy, and sophisticated look of well-coiffed hair. It was especially popular with those who wore longer hairstyles or wanted to maintain a polished, vintage appearance. Given its waxy nature, solid brilliantine could also function as a light pomade, ideal for maintaining sculpted, elegant styles such as the soft waves of the 1930s or the smooth, slicked-back looks of the 1940s. It was a subtle yet important product for achieving the desired hair aesthetics of the era.

Finally, the solid cologne form of Emir was a practical yet luxurious option. Compact and portable, it allowed the wearer to take the rich, spicy notes of Emir with them anywhere, offering a quick touch-up throughout the day. The solid form was especially popular in an era when carrying scent was a more intimate, personal experience.

Each of these forms—whether it was the cologne, perfume, or one of the more indulgent body treatments—allowed the wearer to experience Emir in a way that suited their lifestyle, ensuring the perfume remained a constant presence, whether in a delicate, all-over mist or a more concentrated, intimate application.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1935, Emir by Dana quickly became a signature fragrance, captivating women with its rich, exotic scent that blended the allure of the Orient with the sophistication of European perfumery. The fragrance's complex composition and evocative narrative of Persian opulence made it a beloved favorite, one that resonated with those seeking a fragrance that was both luxurious and mysterious. Over the decades, Emir solidified its place in the hearts of perfume enthusiasts, enduring through shifting trends and tastes, thanks to its timeless appeal and the unique, almost regal essence it embodied. For over four decades, Emir remained a cherished fragrance, evoking the romance and splendor of ancient Eastern courts. It continued to captivate new generations until it was discontinued in 1976, marking the end of an era for one of Dana's most iconic scents. Despite its discontinuation, Emir's legacy persists, remembered as a perfume that bridged cultural narratives and olfactory experiences, leaving an indelible mark on the world of fragrance.